In 1988, American Vogue launched its first new direction under editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, marking two significant milestones in the magazine’s history. This was the first issue produced by Wintour and also featured a pair of jeans on the cover, a move that would become a hallmark of her editorial style.
Wintour took over as editor after Grace Mirabella oversaw a surge in readership but struggled to keep up with the 1980s zeitgeist. Condé Nast executives were concerned the magazine was losing its edge. In contrast to Wintour’s approach, previous covers were shot by Richard Avedon and featured models posing against plain studio backgrounds.
Wintour’s debut issue was warm and easygoing, capturing a sense of casual elegance. The cover featured Israeli model Michaela Bercu wearing Guess jeans and a bejeweled Christian Lacroix couture jacket. This unpretentious approach was reflected in the magazine’s new tone, which aimed to blend high and low culture.
Wintour recalled that the jeans were initially a last-minute addition due to unforeseen circumstances. She had envisioned Bercu wearing a full Christian Lacroix suit but chose to replace it with Guess jeans to create a more relatable image. The resulting cover sparked controversy and interpretation, with some speculating about its intended meaning.
According to Wintour, the intention behind the cover was simply to capture the spirit of change and revolutionize fashion. “It looked easy, casual, a moment that had been snapped on the street,” she said. This approach would become a defining characteristic of her editorial style, paving the way for hundreds of issues to come.
Wintour’s influence extended beyond her first issue, as she went on to feature pop culture icons and even place men on the cover. Her legacy continues to shape American Vogue, cementing her status as one of fashion’s most influential figures.
Source: https://edition.cnn.com/2025/06/27/style/anna-wintour-first-vogue-cover