Rogue waves have long fascinated both sailors and scientists with their towering heights and brief appearances in the open ocean. Researchers have struggled to understand what causes these giant waves, with various theories emerging over the years.
A recent study published in Nature Scientific Reports sheds light on the natural laws that govern rogue waves. Led by associate professor Francesco Fedele of the Georgia Institute of Technology, the team analyzed 18 years of high-frequency laser measurements from the Ekofisk oil platform in the central North Sea.
The data revealed that rogue waves are not freak occurrences but rather follow predictable patterns. The researchers found that extreme waves more likely formed through a process called constructive interference, where multiple smaller waves line up and combine into one massive wave.
This effect is amplified by the natural asymmetry of sea waves, which creates steeper crests than their flatter troughs. Constructive interference can occur in other types of waves as well, such as turbulent water flowing through a confined channel.
By applying a general theory called quasi-determinism of waves, developed by oceanographer Paolo Boccotti, the researchers identified and characterized patterns in the measured North Sea wave records. These patterns, or “wave groups,” reveal how rogue waves came to life and can help engineers design safer ships and offshore platforms.
The study’s findings offer a new understanding of rogue waves, dispelling the myth that they are mysterious and unpredictable events. By recognizing their natural cause, scientists can better predict risks and develop more effective safety measures for sailors and coastal communities.
Source: https://www.livescience.com/planet-earth/rivers-oceans/rogue-waves-can-be-65-feet-tall-but-they-arent-freak-occurrences-data-from-north-sea-reveals